Showing posts with label Mallaig. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mallaig. Show all posts

Sunday, 26 May 2013

TGOC 2013 Day 1: Excitement

I rarely sleep beyond 4.00am these days so after the obligatory cups of tea whilst lying in bed I was out for an early morning wander around Mallaig.  The weather was perfect.  Sun, a few fluffy clouds and no more than a slight breath of wind.  The harbour was still.  The water flat calm.  The gulls cried.  There was a smell of saIt, seaweed and diesel oil, so evocative of fishing ports.  It was serene.  For the first time in weeks my nerves vanished.  Just vanished.  And also for the first time in weeks I sensed a different emotion.  Excitement.  I could feel a silly grin appearing on my face.  Now just to digress from the Challenge tale for a moment, I must acknowledge the superfluous nature of the phrase “on my face” in the previous sentence, for where else can a grin appear but on the face?

Anyway, grinning like the Cheshire Cat I popped down to the Co-op and bought a sandwich for my lunch.  Good move, as over the coming days I was to became profoundly bored with trail mix and cereal bars.  Then back to the B and B.  Full Scottish.  Re-sort pack (again).  Up to the West Highland Hotel to sign out at 9.10am, meaning my Challenge formally started with a sit down, as I then had to wait until Bruce Watts weighed anchor at 10.15pm.
Mike Knipe contemplates a 45 minute boat trip before he can get to the pub
 
As a whole big bunch of Challengers waited for Bruce’s boat it started to rain lightly and intermittently.  Wanting not to risk having wet clothing earlier than necessary, I pulled on cag and overtrousers.  These were to remain on until I was finally in my tent several hours later.  I spotted a ULA Catalyst pack on another Challenger, and thus I met “Reuben’s Dad”, James Boulter, for the first time outside cyber space.  I have a bad habit of “knowing” if I like someone instantly, and I did.  Thoroughly nice guy.  Also on the boat was another person known, until then, only through the medium of wireless and fibre optics (although us country dwellers should be so lucky to ever get fibre optics).  This was Superdawg’s Dad, Mike Knipe, him of the driest sense of humour outside the Sahara.  And our new Dutch friends, Chaz and Dave were there too.

Crossing Loch Nevis on the way to Inverie
 45 minutes later we arrived at Inverie to the organised chaos of packs being removed from the hold (I am making this up as I go along, as the hold was just a blue tarpaulin on the deck) and passed up on to the bustling quayside.  Ok, this wasn’t Rotterdam but there was a bit of bustle.  Whilst James and I faffed around taking photos and getting our Pacer Poles out, Mike Knipe and various other old hands headed off at a speed of knots.  Not to walk, of course, but to get to the bar of the pub in Inverie before a queue built up.  That was my last view of Mike on the Challenge.
I walked with James for the first 45 minutes or so until our routes diverged.  I then headed off the LR track to get my first minor taste (I was only in it for 15 minutes) of Scottish bog as I cut across to Gleann Meadall and then started the gentle climb up to the col at the top of the Glen.  I walked this section alone, although I was aware of Chaz and Dave someway behind me.  The rain came on properly and its intensity increased steadily.  There were a group of Challengers resting at the Col when I arrived.  I believe some had left their packs there and had just “popped up” a nearby hill.
I had no intentions at any time on this Challenge of doing anything like that on my walk.  I had one aspiration and one aspiration only.  To get to the east coast.  Hills could wait for another time and another crossing.  Later in the Challenge, by the time I reached Braemar, this aspiration had actually turned into a specific, well thought out and simple strategy, which I shall elaborate on in a later post for anyone sad enough still to be reading by then.
The path down to Sourlies was far easier than I had anticipated; less steep than the impression I had gained from previous Challengers.  I walked across the bog and salt marshes, admiring a few grazing deer, with two others – I think it was Matt Little and Ian Somerville and the tide was low enough to allow us to walk round to the bothy on the beach and so avoid a final stiff pull up over the headland.

That's my little Akto near the Sourlies Bothy
 There is some lovely turf for camping on just before the bothy.  I decided to avoid this and save later arrivals the horror of my snoring by going on just beyond the bothy to a smaller patch of turf near a stream.  The Akto was up by 4.45pm.  The rain hammered down.  I hunkered down in the warmth of my tent and sleeping bag and brewed up.  Dave and Chaz went passed (should that be past?) at 5.30pm planning to walk to a bothy beyond Glen Dessarry (I later heard they walked until 11.00pm).
After my first dehydrated meal of the walk I thought that was me for the day.  Then I looked out of my tent.  The stream was well up.  The tide was in and the loch was high.  Pools of water were developing all around my tent.  I packed most of my stuff in case I had to bail out.  The rain continued.  At 8.00pm I was taking the tent down and moving to the turf the other side of the bothy which was on slightly higher ground.  Ian’s Duomid had been near mine.  He decided to risk staying put.  I had half an hour by the fire in the bothy before bed back in the tent.  Ian was moving his Duomid in the dark at 11.00pm as the rain kept falling….
After the move: this was a far drier spot

 

 

Saturday, 25 May 2013

TGOC 2013 Day Minus 1: Do I Really Look that Stupid?

In my mind the Challenge started on the day of my train journey to Mallaig.  This is the day when it all became real.


And We're Off

I was vaguely amused by the Virgin Rail poster I saw on the platform as I waited for my train on Penrith station.  It said "Do not carry more luggage onto the train than you can comfortably carry". It raised a wry smile from me as I hefted my pack in to the carriage. A good motto for planning for the Challenge.

Glasgow Queen Street. I had never met a real Challenger before.  All the ones I knew were cyber space acquaintances, fellow tweeters or bloggers who revealed their characters and views in 140 character bite size chunks.  I headed in to the bar and found Messrs Lambert, Walker and Sloman drinking tea.  They kindly welcomed my intrusion so I wasn't Billy No Mates.  I follow Alan and Andrew on Twitter.   They were exactly as expected.  That's good. I didn't know Phil, but he exuded quiet confidence and experience. The station filled with rucksacks, and old friends reunited. I stood on the fringes, glad to get into my reserved seat rather than crashing other people's conversations.

The lovely Vicky Allen and her aunt Barbara were sitting behind me in the carriage.  This was a good thing.  A fellow Challenger kept coming to speak to me.  He was experienced.  He had done the crossing once before and was full of advice for me.  My route sounded dodgy. I shouldn't camp by that loch - the wind whistled down the valley at hurricane force and my tent wouldn't survive.  The ferry to Inverie only held 3 or 4 people and I wouldn't get a place on it if I hadn't booked.  And best of all, he asked me whether I had waterproofs with me. Well, even I didn't think I looked that dim.  As he left, Vicky simply whispered "He doesn't know what he's talking about.  Ignore him".  I tried and I think the waterproofs comment helped.  I have been climbing mountains for over 40 years now and I like to think that this, and the compulsory units in meteorology I did as part of my degree had given me a hint that Scotland could be a tad rainy.

Fort William.  The two empty seats opposite me filled with Dutch father and son, Charles and David. David turned out to be this year's youngest Challenger. What thoroughly nice chaps.  I liked them immediately, but couldn't get Chaz and Dave, the Cockney pub singing duet out of my mind, despite the fact that my new companions were the very opposite, and I had to resist the urge to say "gercha" at them.  A week later David would show remarkable peace of mind on the evening when Charles, David, James Boulter and myself were viciously assaulted in an unprovoked attack by a duck in the Fife Arms in Braemar.  That little episode will feature in a future post.


Mallaig Harbour - The Night Before The Off


Mallaig.  Checked in to my B and B. Great fish and chips. The haddock can't have been dead more than a few hours.  Walked down to the waterfront and looked out to the Western Isles.  I couldn't believe the magical beauty of the scene looking over towards Rhum, Eigg and the distant Cuillins.  I had never been here before.  I would have to come back.



I wish I had a better camera but none could do justice to this view


Bed. Ready, steady.... 

Wednesday, 8 May 2013

TGO Last Minute Musings

It is a long time since the brown envelope arrived last autumn with the news that so excited me - a coveted place on The Great Outdoors Challenge.  At the time it felt like I had ages to prepare. Lots of time to train and to sort the logistics.  As it happens, there was plenty of time for both.  But for various reasons eg rotten weather (which I could and should have ignored!), domestic commitments, a house move, and new work commitments, I did far less of the former than anticipated.  I guess that will be the story for many of the 300 challengers.  Ironically, on my last training walk, only carrying a light pack, just over a week ago in the Berwyn Hills of mid-Wales,  I "tweaked" a calf muscle and that gave me quite a bit of pain for a few days.  A scan yesterday at an emergency physio session showed a tear in the muscle.  However, it is not hurting at the moment so I have bought  some extra strapping in case it needs support and stuck this in my pack, and I will hope for the best.

Now I am all packed and a taxi is booked to take me to Penrith Station tomorrow morning for the journey to Mallaig.

Kit packed and carried:  I managed to lighten my load somewhat from the earlier post on this blog which set out my intended kit list.  Although I will still be one of the heavier challengers (both me and my pack!) I have now had to stop agonising about what to keep in and what to ditch.  Decisions are made.  With 3 days food, fuel and base clothing and equipment I will be carrying 13.6kg + clothes worn. I have gone with the Akto rather than the Trail Star, as the latter is just no good for my height.  I dithered over sleeping bag choice, given the poor weather forecast, but have settled on the Rab Neutrino Endurance 400 which is 900 grams with 800+ fill power which should, I hope, keep me tolerably warm.  I have ditched the Montane Prism Primaloft trousers and silk liner that I would have used if I was taking a lighter bag. I have a spare Berghaus polyester base layer to sleep in.    And I have thrown in a pair of Ron Hill Tracksters (fashion disaster) also to sleep in, so I should always have spare, dry clothes for night only.  My Montane Terra walking trousers are not that warm so I have some very light Rab Meco long johns if needed.  I also have decided to risk just taking my trail shoes, with no other footwear to change into.  I will ford streams in these - but I have thrown in some Seal Skinz socks and some Ultralight Rohan liner socks in case I want to keep my feet dry in the evenings.  Not carrying crocs or similar saves over 400 grams.

My maps weigh far more than they should, partly due to over caution and partly due to my own stupidity.  I decided to trim down, very moderately, my paper OS maps and to carry them all with me in case any resupply parcel goes missing.  They will generally be stowed in the pack; I printed out A4 map extracts on waterproof paper and have posted these on in resupply parcels, other than for those needed for the first 3 days, and I will only get out the larger area maps if needed.  Overkill to most other Challengers I suspect.  Like an idiot, it never occurred to me to print out the map extracts double sided, but I can at least trim these down so they only show the line of my route as I have the larger back ups in my pack.

So now I am as ready as I will ever be, and I am facing the next two weeks with a mixture of excitement and apprehension. I think the former will grow and the latter will recede as I actually get started on the walk.  I am sure some of the apprehension will linger, though, until I am on Stonehaven beach two weeks tomorrow.  In the meantime I am looking forward to meeting lots of other challengers, so many of whom have been so supportive and helpful and free with advice over the last 6 months.