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| Yup. They are orange. But at least he didn't wear the lime green pair |
“Please let me come with you, David, oh please, go on let me.”
“No Geoffrey, and you know why.”
“But I like dressing up as a smurf, and that costume keeps
my ears warm.”
“I said no, Geoffrey. You really showed me up when you wore
it last time. Those real backpackers
were laughing at us when we had lunch on Thornthwaite Crag. I have my reputation as a top fellsman to
think of. It took me almost 50 years of
walking in the Lakes to earn that. It was destroyed in the course of one quick trail mix break.”
“Oh pretty please. I
promise I’ll dress soberly this time. Oh
go on.”
I gave in. There has to be some kindness amongst all
the horridness in this modern world. And
did I make a single comment when he turned up wearing his orange Rab trousers? I did not. My true nature shone through, as it
always does. Sainthood cannot be many more years away.
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| Route for Day 1 |
The weather forecast was promising. The sun came out as we parked up in Buttermere
and headed off along Crummock Water. A nice gentle start. Forty-seven years of walking in the Lakes and
I had never been along the delightful path along the western side of Crummock Water. Picturesque, and with an added bonus, as the
Kirkstile Inn is just beyond the end of the lake. We arrived at lunchtime, with
half the day's distance but hardly any of the climbing done, and so we stuck to a single, non-alcoholic drink (and not even a single alcoholic one, in case you think I was being
clever in the use of language there).
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| Looking back to Fleetwith Pike from Crummock Water |
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The path along Crummock Water
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| Happy Chappy at the Kirkstile Inn |
|
After some loin girding on leaving the pub it was up through Holme Wood
and along the beautifully engineered terrace path high above Loweswater,
followed by a steep pull up the lower grassy slopes of Burnbank Fell and on and
over Blake Fell and then down to hunt out a dry spot to camp in the col before Gavel
Fell.
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Loweswater and Holme Wood, with Grassmoor in the distance
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| On Burnbank Fell |
|
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| I'm just starting to get that weary feeling in this picture |
We were pitched by 4.30pm. Geoff was soon in his chair and brewing up. I have never seen anyone look as comfortable and
relaxed when wild camping as Geoff is on a warm sunny evening. For once I had decided not to have a freeze
dried meal for my dinner but to cook properly – well as much as one can on a
meths stove with one pot and no plate. The
less said about the meatball and baby wipes incident the better. Suffice to say I have now washed all the
affected clothing.
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| Geoff in his element |
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| Just before sunrise on our second day |
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| Temperature inversion over Crummock Water |
The second day was tough. It was only 13km and 828 metres of ascent but
some of the climbs were fierce and the descents even worse. It was
also much hotter than we had anticipated, with brilliant sunshine for most of
the day and little opportunity to top up our water bottles. When I got home I checked my old logs and
found that the last time I had walked the Red Pike – High Stile - High Crag –
Seat ridge was in 2011. Seven years has
taken its toll on my fitness and ability, but it is absurd to complain. It remains a superb walk with the most
fabulous mountain scenery in all directions.
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| Fleetwith Pike from near High Crag |
Grey Crag looked superb. Had I
really hauled a heavy rucksack of climbing gear up to it from the valley floor
one hot day in 1996 for several hours of climbing on its traditional rock
routes? I had. No way could I ever do that these days. The descent of Gamlin End was as horrid as I
remembered, but at least I knew it would be bad, so had reconciled myself in
advance to a few minutes of purgatory.
But beyond Seat and Scarth Pass the going down to Ennerdale was fine,
and the brew at the Black Sail Hut even better. After this Geoff picked out a splendid camp spot a little higher up the valley for
another evening of sunshine.
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| Glorious pitch in Upper Ennerdale, with Great Gable and Windy Gap on the skyline |
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| From my early morning walk with Mr Trowel |
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| Breakfast |
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| The Black Sail Hut |
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| Warnscale Bottom and surrounding Fells |
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The head of beautiful Buttermere
Rain had been forecast for our final day but our luck held. There were a couple of showers in the night
but none as we made our way up to Scarth Gap and then down to the lovely
Buttermere shoreline. It was an easy
finish to a superb three days with excellent company. Thanks as ever, Geoff. And you know that the insults are because I am really secretly jealous of your sartorial elegance in the
hills. 😄
|
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| Route Days 2 and 3 - with various bits missing as I struggled with the screen shot |
